DeeDee's Make-Up Primer
When one first starts expressing herself in one's manner of dress it is very difficult to get any kind of routine going. Sometimes one is rushed to get into the femme mode. This kind of "rushed" habit can lead to all kinds of "fashion no-no's". "Just good enough" as opposed to "just right" are two completely different looks. Remember girls, we have to make an extra effort to look hot because we're starting with a handicap (testosterone). There isn't always time to take our sweet time in getting ready. To have a set routine is very important for many reasons. We should have a routine so we look like we want to on a consistent basis. We should have a routine so that we can refine the look we want. We should have a routine so that we can cut the time down "painting" and have more time to enjoy as us.
This "primer" is meant only to give one an idea of the order and manner of make-up application. It is not intended as a "follow-the-dots" method of "becoming", but only as a loose guideline to help one understand the importance of "routine" and how we can improve our "look" from almost there to really good! Shall we retire to the powder room?
Okay ladies, let's start with absolutely necessary "tools" (not Craftsman). There are certain beauty implements that a girl can't do without. Get your purses out...
These are the tools one requires to perform the "minimum" make-up application. There are many more that you will eventually purchase to get the "look" you are looking for but for starters this will do. Next we will move to essential make-up requirements.
Now that you have hawked your stereo equipment in order to purchase the essential tools and make-up we shall move on to actual application.
I'm taking for granted that you have been following a strict facial regimen, so here we go. Ready, set, femme city her I come!!!
PRIOR to adorning your beautiful body with that expensive dress or gown you begin your routine. I like to put all of my under garments on and then begin painting. I wear my bra, waist nipper, panties, hose, and high heels while I'm transforming into DeeDee. If I decide to wear them, I leave my hair add-ons/wig till last...even after my lipstick. Ladies, whatever you do, please don't ruin your dress, gown, or whatever with make-up stains. Leave it to last to "dawn your apparrel".
Pull your hair back and secure it out of the way. (Don't get any foundation or concealer in your hair). Apply your concealer where necessary. Apply extra concealer around the dark beard areas. Don't go crazy but cover where necessary. Practice makes perfect!
Now we're going to "sculpt" our face. Face sculpting is an art and takes plenty of practice. One needs pictures to compare our progress so if you don't have a "polaroid" or some kind of instant camera...invest in one. You will find the instant camera indispensible. I hate to keep harping but we absolutely have to be presentable and the only way is to refine one's look. Genuine Girls have a lifetime to refine...we need to do it in a matter of months once we decide to "be seen". Be a G.I.R.L. and do it right. We're moving towards Jill's look and leaving Jack's old look behind!
The first step in face sculpting is applying your foundation. (If one get's this part right she is 75% of the way to the look she's hoping for!) Use a stipple sponge and apply it evenly. DO NOT over apply! If you've applied your concealer correctly than, in applying the foundation, all you're looking for is an even skin effect. Apply the foundation to your eyelids AND lips. Yes, your lips. The fact is we usually don't have the perfect femme lips... but we can "create" the perfect lips by "sculpting" what we have. (Even the most successful models sculpt ALL their facial features. Why do you think they look so hot in Cosmo & Glamour magazine?) .
The next step in face sculpting is determining what features you want to "sculpt". The following are the features most "hoochies" need to highlight/sculpt:
To give the appearance of "lifted" eyes you will apply contour powder just above the outside half of your eyebrow and sweeping it up "into" your hairline. Use "blush" or "eyeshadow" (if you don't have skin tone blush) and apply it with a your blush brush. Don't overdo it but apply just enough so you see a subtle shading that will actually seem to "lift" the outside portion of your eyebrow.
To slim your nose you will need both your highlighter and your contour shade to get the effect you are looking for. With your highlighter (light eyeshadow or the lightest of light blush powder) draw a line down the center of your nose. You want to highlight the "crown" of your nose and "limit" the downward portion of the "slope" into your cheekbones with a contour shade of powder. A line of a darker shade of "blush" on both sides of the highlighter will work gloriously for this. Take your highlighter and place a "dot" on the bevels of your nostrils (the top of your nostrils) and take your stipple sponge and GENTLY blend it all in. If done right you will see a completely different person in the mirror. You will now begin to see the "femme" you!
High cheekbones are a fashion staple that really begin to define glamour. Here is how one get's that look naturally, and without a "hussie" look. Feel your cheekbones and find out where they are. Using your highlighter place a line of the lightest of light highlighter at the top of your cheekbone and draw a line that extends into your hairline. The next step is to use your contour shadow to draw a line just under the highlighter following the line into your hairline. As with your nose sculpting, use your stipple sponge and GENTLY blend the colors together "stroking softly" toward your hairline. (When your face is completely sculpted you will apply a "dusting" of blush under these lines for the full "high cheekbone hoochie" effect). Isn't this fun!
Our jawlines and chins present such a problem! As Jack, we are "Macho" if our jawline and chin protrude. As Jill, we are "shattered" by our ineptitude to cover it up. GG's chin and jawline seem to disappear into their neck without any trace of Adam's apple. That is what we need to try and effect...a jawline that "disappears" into our neck. One can accomplish this by using contour powder along one's jawline and blending it "under" our chin line. That reliable stipple sponge will blend the contour powder into the foundation. Once our jawline is "invisible" we are ready to move on to sculpting our lips.
Earlier I suggested applying foundation to your lips. The reason? To completely erase the boundaries of one's lips. Once the boundaries are gone we can define our lips as we choose. Of course, to over emphasize or under emphasize one's lips will look unnatural, so one must find the "natural" balance with one's facial features and, then, use a quality lipliner to line one's lips accordingly. As was mentioned before, pictures speak - and one should experiment until the lips look completely balanced with not only a femme look, but with all your other facial features.
Face sculpting will make such a difference in one's look one must learn to be an expert at it. Practice. Practice. Practice. Oh yeah, and if I forgot to mention it...PRACTICE!
Now that one has achieved the perfect balance of concealer, foundation and, sculpting - one can get her powder out and 'set" her look. Face powder is used to produce a finished matte look. Powder will help blend all the colors that have been applied. Powder will keep your face from looking "greasy or oily". Powder is fun to apply! I suggested using a translucent powder but whatever color you use it shouldn't neutralize all the work you've just done. It should look natural and at the same time let all of your shading and contouring "glow" through. To apply the powder without negating all of one's hard work it should be applied with a big fluffy facial brush. (The pad that comes with your compact will work if you use it gently enough and then finish with a brush). If you choose to use the pad with your compact ALWAYS pat it on and never RUB it on. Powder is for removing shine and for blending. IT IS NOT a color for your face. That part comes next. Applying color!
Powder blush is not only the easiest to apply but is the also the quickest to apply with such an immediate effect of color that you will be amazed. The key for blush application is that if you can barely see it...it's probably too much. There have been so many tragic overdoses of blush that ultimately ended up in late night rushes to the "fashion hospital" that it is scary! Please...don't let your friends drive "blush" drunk. Blush should be applied sparingly from the "hollow" of your cheek (under your sculpting efforts and lining it up with the middle of your eye) sweeping back to the hairline (not above your temple) in a "horizontal" teardrop shape. A very, very light dusting can be applied down your jawline from your ear to the area directly across from your lipline. Use a fluffy brush to gently blend. There should be absolutely no distinctive lines visible. BLEND!
Since Lips and Eyes are so distinctive you will find separate tips that can be found by going back to DeeDee's table of Fashion Suggestions and Make-Up Tips. Aren't we excited! We're almost totally FEMME with the "look" we desire - complete and "hoochie" worthy!