A CD's SHOPPING GUIDE

By Sandi Horn

The  following material was put together from several sources including  an
excellent  article  by Christina Cross on how to select the  best  look  in
clothes for your body shape and size.

Trying  to  get acquainted with a new set of rules for dressing can  be  so
confusing it may make you throw up your hands and quit. I've had ladies ask
me  many times, "What is the best look for MY body?" When I ask what  image
they'd  like  to  project invariably the response is "Oh, I  want  to  look
pretty." Of course everyone's version of "pretty" will vary. Don't let your
clothes  be the focal point! Your clothes should enhance the way you  feel,
the person you are. They should make people notice YOU first, NOT what  you
are wearing.

I  usually  advise these ladies to play up what they feel  are  their  best
features and play down those features they'd rather not draw attention  to.
I've  found  the easiest way to start is to consult a basic chart  of  body
variations with suggestions on how to enhance or downplay each.

The  chart you'll find later in this article is really a bare-bones  chart,
leaving lots of room for experimentation. As a starting point, it serves to
give  suggestions  for elaborating on and applying different  tricks  to  a
particular look. Look at what describes your body most closely. Look at the
suggestions,  combine them and then translate them to your fashion look.

It can be helpful and fun at the same time.

Body Variations:

BROAD SHOULDERS

     recommended:

          1). raglan sleeves,
          2). dolman sleeves,
          3). V-neck.
          4). drop shoulders.

     discouraged:

          1). padded shoulders,
          2). boat necks,
          3). puff sleeves.

NARROW SHOULDERS

     recommended:

          1). halter tops
          2). small collars,
          3). padded shoulders,
          4). diagonal lines from shoulder to waist.

     discouraged:

          1). turtlenecks,
          2). bulky fabrics

LONG WAISTED

     recommended:

          1). high-waisted slacks,
          2). skirt lengths just below the knee,
          3). wide belts,
          4). layered look.

     discouraged:

          1). hip-hugger pants,
          2). low-slung belts

SHORT WAISTED

     recommended:

          1). pants which ride low on waistline,
          2). low-slung belts,
          3). overblouses falling to inseam.

     discouraged:

          1). wide belts,
          2). short jackets or blouses,
          3). belted overblouses.

THICK WAIST

     recommended:

          1). vests,
          2). loose waistlines,
          3). hip-slung belts
          4). dolman sleeves,
          5). chemise dresses,
          6). long tunic over skirt.

     discouraged:

          1). wide belts,
          2) pleated or gathered skirts.

SMALL WAIST

      recommended:

          1). belts - any kind/style,
          2). waist accents

     discouraged:

          1). unbelted dresses.

FULL BUST

     recommended:

          1). loose fitting tops,
          2). long-sleeved blouses,
          3). chocker necklaces,
          4). V-necks,
          5). open necks.

     discouraged:

          1). tube tops,
          2). tight ribbed knits,
          3). patch pockets on shirts,
          4). puffy sleeves.

SMALL BUST

     recommended:

          1). flowing blouses,
          2). brightly colored blouses,
          3). horizontal yokes,
          4). padded shoulders.

     discouraged:

          1). tight shirts.

SHORT NECK

     recommended:

          1). V-necks,
          2). open collars,
          3). scoop necks,
          4). hanging pendants.

     discouraged:

          1). turtlenecks,
          2). cowl necks,
          3). layered look.

LONG NECK

     recommended:

          1). turtlenecks,
          2). cowl necks,
          3). layered look,
          4). boat neck,
          5). scarves and jewelry at neck,
          6). one-shouldered dresses.

     discouraged:

          1). peter pan collars,
          2). scoop necks.

SMALL BODY

     recommended:

          1). simple linear designs,
          2). pleated skirts (linear lines),
          3). slacks,
          4). one color head-to-toe,
          5). long sleeves,
          6). medium width belts,
          7). vertical stripes.

     discouraged:

          1). large, busy patterns,
          2). horizontal stripes,
          3). pegged pants,
          4). bulky fabrics,
          5). many colors at one time.

SHORT LEGS

     recommended:

          1). vertical stripes,
          2). solid colors,
          3). mid-calf length skirts and dresses,
          4). high-heeled shoes.

     discouraged:

          1). pegged pants,
          2). hip hugging pants,
          3). busy prints or plaids

HEAVY LEGS

     recommended:

          1). straight-leg slacks,
          2). boots,
          3). just below the knee skirts and dresses,
          4). high-heel shoes,
          5). dark colored shoes and stockings.

     discouraged:

          1). short skirts,
          2). tight pants,
          3). shoes with straps.

SMALL HIPS

     recommended:

          1). pleated, gathered skirts,
          2). chimise dresses,
          3). overblouses.

     discouraged:

          1). tight skirts,
          2). hip-hugging pants,

LARGE HIPS/THIGHS

     recommended:

          1). dark colored skirts and dresses,
          2). dark colored hose/shoes,
          3). single colored outfits,
          4). long tunic over skirt.

     discouraged:

          1). large, busy patterns on skirts/pants,
          2). horizontal stripes on skirts/pants,
          3). brightly colored or plaid skirts or pants,
          4). gathered skirts,
          5). pants with back pockets.

Remember, as you scrutinize this chart that these are GUIDELINES ONLY. What
may  not be listed here for your body type may be perfect for the  type  of
look you want to achieve. As you experiment, you'll become more  confident.
And, most importantly, confidence is the real key to any successful fashion
look.

Next, after you have decided what styles will be best suited to you,  comes
the all important SIZING FEMININE ATTIRE TO THE MALE BODY.

Here  we  shall discuss the important topic of SIZE. Specifically,  how  to
measure  your  body  and  translate the  resulting  numbers  into  feminine
clothing sizes.

Normally when one shops in a store the known size of the garment guides one
to  the  correct  area of the store where the final selection  is  made  by
trying the garment on for appearance and comfort.

Experienced  shoppers  know sizes vary  from  manufacturer-to-manufacturer,
label-to-label,  material-to-material  and even one time to  the  next.  In
other  words,  clothes sizing is NOT an exact science. The MTF  is  further
handicapped by seeking clothing neither cut nor sized for the male body. Of
course  the ideal situation is to have feminine clothing styled and  fitted
by  a tailor to your individual body. There are a few tailors available  to
provide this service.

However, the purpose of this article is to assist the MTF emerging from the
dark  recesses  of  his/her closet with the  first  selection  of  feminine
clothing  to provide the best chance of passing in public at an  affordable
cost.  It is assumed this initial selection will be made from a mail  order
house  or  possibly at a store WITHOUT trying the garment(s)  on  prior  to
purchase.

Obviously  the  first  step in determining your size(s)  is  to  take,  and
record, your body measurements. It is easier if you have a friend help  and
if  you  wear  no more then your basic  undergarments  (bra  and  panties).
Referring  to the figure farther on in this article measure the length,  in
inches, around your body at the following locations: chest, bust, waist and
hips.  Record the results near the same areas of the figure. It is best  to
have a cloth measuring tape (one can be purchased in the sewing or  notions
department of variety or department stores). Always keep the tape  parallel
to the floor and stand straight, but comfortably (breathing normally)  with
feet together. It's important to be wearing a bra filled in the same manner
as you expect to be wearing under your new clothing.

The  chest  is measured with the tape snugly under the arms and  above  the
cups  of  your bra. The bust is measured with the tape around  the  fullest
part of your bra cups with the tape just snug enough to prevent its sliding
down in back. The difference between the the chest and bust measurement  is
your cup size.

The  waist  is measured with the tape at the narrowest part of  your  waist
(about mid-way) between the top of the hip bone and the lowest part of  the
rib cage.

The hips measurement is taken with the tape snuggly around the largest part
of your hips and buttocks.

Remember,  while measuring ALWAYS keep the tape parallel to the  floor.  If
you  don't yet have a bra, don't despair. You can determine your bust  size
from  your chest size if you know what the cup size of your bra is or  will
be. The following scale will help you determine your cup size.

If your bust averages

     1" larger than your chest measurement you are an A-cup;
     2" equals a B-cup;
     3" equals a C-cup;
     4" equals a D-cup and
     5" equals an E-cup.

For  example, if you wish to wear a B-cup size bra and your chest  measures
38  inches then your complete bra size is 38B. You can see that  your  bust
measurement  would  be 40 inches. (Add the 2 inches of the  B-cup  to  your
chest measurement of 38" and you have 40".) Also note the numeric value  of
your bra is the same as your chest measurement.

DRESS  SIZE  Using  the size chart on the end of this  article  (which  you
should check against any dress size chart in any mail order catelog you may
be using) and your measurements for bust, waist and hips locate your  dress
size from the size group for your height. The chances are your measurements
AREN'T ALL in the same vertical column of the chart. Again, don't  despair.
The  size  charts  AREN'T formulated for a masculine  body  and  even  some
feminine  bodies don't fit the size mold. Generally you will have  to  pick
the LARGEST size from the three measurements. Say, for example, you are  6'
tall with bust/ waist/hip measurements of 42/32/38 respectively. Looking at
the  chart you'll see the following three different Tall Misses  sizes  are
indicated:

     42 bust  = size 20
     32 waist = size 16
     38 hips  = size 14

The  obvious  choice  would be the the size 20 dress.  However,  you  might
rationalize that since only one inch separates your bust measurement from a
size 18 it would be an acceptable choice since it would fit much better  at
the  waist.  If the dress is styled so a slight snuggness at the  bust  and
shoulders won't detract from the overall appearance then the 18 would be an
acceptable selection. As a second example say your height is 5'8" and  your
measurements  are  41/36/41. You can see on the size chart  that  your  36"
waist  dictates  the  need of a Tall Misses size  20  dress.  However,  the
judicious  use of a waist cincher will probably bring your waist  down  two
inches to thirty-four inches which would perfect for a size 18 dress.  Your
height  of  5'8"  would probably also allow you to wear the  same  size  in
Misses  as well as Tall Misses. As mentioned before clothing sizing is  NOT
an  exact  science and a bit of fudging is allowed, but don't  let  fantasy
overcome common sense. The bad news is that dresses are the most  difficult
to fit, so if your body measurements don't line up with the chart, read on.
By the way, bathing suits are sized the same as dresses.

BLOUSE  SIZE  (also  sweaters).  Blouses are  sized  by  bust  measurement,
although  shoulder width must also be considered for the male  since  women
tend to have narrower shoulders then do men. If you have a choice between a
"standard"  and  a Raglan shoulder take the latter since it  has  no  seams
AROUND the shoulder and you may be able to select a smaller size because of
this feature. A bust measurement of fortyfour inches requires a size 22. If
the  blouse  is  long  sleeved a Tall Misses size  should  be  selected  to
accommodate the slightly longer male arms; however if the blouse is  short-
sleeved a Misses size 22 will probably fit just as well.

SKIRT SIZES (also pants and jeans). Generally, skirts have zipper  closures
with a button on the waist-band although, of course, some have  elastisized
waist  bands. Waist measurements determine skirt size. From the  chart  you
can  see that a thirty inch waist requires a size 14 skirt.  Fitted  skirts
are usually cut for hips 8 to 10 inches larger than the waist. If your hips
measure  more than 10 inches greater than your waist you will have  to  use
your hip measurement in selecting skirts. Tall Misses skirts are  generally
2 to 4 inches longer than Misses skirts of the same size.

LINGERIE SIZES

BRAS. Use chest measurement.

PANTIES.  Use hip measurement. Number sizes for panties are seldom used  in
catalogs any more.

PANTYHOSE Use the chart on the package to determine size requirements.

SLIP, TEDDIE, CAMISOLE. Use bust measurement.

GARTER-BELT, GIRDLE, HALF-SLIP. Use waist measurement.

CORSELETTE,  BODY BRIEFER. Use bust measurement. Pay special  attention  to
garment length.

HOSE  and  STOCKINGS. Generally sized by body height. 5'8"  or  taller  use
sizes 11 thru 13 large or long. 5'7" and shorter use sizes 8 to 10, average
or medium.

SHOE SIZES. Sizes vary from label to label and style to style more than any
other  article in the feminine wardrobe. As a rule of thumb (or toe)  males
require  a 1/2 to a full size larger in feminine sized sandals (a  "sandal"
is  any  feminine shoe style with an open toe) than when  buying  masculine
styled  shoes. For pumps or shoes with a closed toe 1 to 1 1/2 size  larger
is  required. An solution for this problem is, when ordering shoes  from  a
mail  order  house, to include a tracing of your LEFT foot  and  they  will
select the correct size for you. But, using the above information you  will
have  an  approximation of the size required so be sure  the  shoes  you're
ordering are available in the size you need.

To further assist you in determining sizes, the following tables have  been
taken  from several catalogs. You will often find that size  tables  differ
between  mail order houses according to how they cut their clothes and  the
specific market they cater to. Thus, unfortunately, they are only a GUIDE.

If you are.. 4'11" to 5'3" you wear PETITE MISSES or PETITE JUNIORS
If you are.. 5'3 1/2" to 5'7 1/2" you wear MISSES or  JUNIORS MISSES
If you are.. 5'8" to 5'11" you wear TALL MISSES or TALL JUNIORS

Hope someone finds this helpful,
Sandi Horn